How to Troubleshoot Heating Issues in a Brown Top Kenmore Dryer

KenmoreKenmore DryerModerate⏱ 30 minutes - 1 hour

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Use this guide to diagnose a brown-top Kenmore dryer that tumbles but does not heat. A missing 240 V supply, an open heating element, or a failed thermostat can all stop the dryer from producing heat. This guide was written around a brown-top Kenmore dryer, but many similar models use the same checks with minor differences.

🧰 Tools

Work Gloves
Digital Multimeter
1/4 inch nut driver
5/16 Inch Nut Driver
6-in-1 Screwdriver

⚙️ Parts

Dryer Heating Element
Dryer thermostat

ШагиSteps

Prepare for live voltage testing

Use a multimeter rated for household mains voltage and set it to AC volts.
Keep the dryer plugged in only while checking supply voltage.
Live 240 V can cause severe shock, so touch only insulated probe handles and do not let the probe tips bridge terminals.
If you are not comfortable testing live voltage, stop here and ask a qualified technician for help.

Check the supply voltage

Use the three terminal screws as a left-center-right reference.
Measure from the left screw to the center screw; the meter should read about 120 V.
Measure from the center screw to the right screw; the meter should read about 120 V.
Measure across the two outside screws; the meter should read about 240 V.
A reading near 250 V across the outside screws can still be normal in some homes.
The dryer can tumble on 120 V, but the heater needs the full 240 V supply.
If any expected reading is missing, fix the power-supply problem before testing dryer parts.

Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel

Unplug the dryer before removing panels or testing resistance.
Turn the dryer around so you can reach the back panel.
Wear work gloves if the sheet-metal edges feel sharp.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws around the back-panel perimeter.
Lift off the back panel and set it aside.

Test the heating element

Keep the dryer unplugged while testing the heating element.
Find the heating-element terminals on the heater housing.
Pull the wire connectors off the heating-element terminals.
Set the multimeter to ohms.
Touch one probe to each heating-element terminal.
A reading around 9.7 to 9.8 ohms means the heating element is good.
An open-circuit or no-continuity reading means the heating element is bad.
Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Test the first thermostat

Find the first thermostat in the heater circuit.
Pull the wires off the thermostat terminals.
Keep the multimeter set to ohms.
Touch one probe to each thermostat terminal.
A reading around 0.1 ohm means the thermostat is closed and passing voltage.
An open-circuit reading, like the meter shows with one probe lifted, means the thermostat is bad.
Replace the thermostat if it reads open.

Test the second thermostat

Pull the wires off the second thermostat terminals.
Keep the meter set to ohms.
Touch one probe to each terminal.
A reading around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms means this thermostat is good.
An open-circuit reading means this thermostat is bad and can stop the dryer from heating.
Replace the thermostat if it reads open.
If both thermostats test good and the heater reads open, replace the heating element.

Open the dryer top

Open the dryer top only if the heating element tested bad.
Pull the lint filter out of the top panel.
Remove the two screws under the lint-filter opening with a screwdriver.
Pull the top forward to release the front edge from the clips.
Flip the top back to open the dryer.
You can reach the heater bracket from the back, but opening the top makes it easier to see.

Remove the heater bracket

Locate the bracket that hooks over the top of the heater and secures it to the frame.
The bracket is awkward to reach, so work slowly and keep the screw from falling into the dryer.
Use a stubby 1/4 inch nut driver or a flathead screwdriver to remove the bracket screw.
Lift off the heater bracket.
The heater still hangs on two lower posts after the bracket is removed.

Remove the heating element assembly

Lift the heater assembly slightly to unhook its slots from the two lower posts.
Pull the heater assembly down and out of the dryer.
Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the center screw from the heater housing.
Slide the heating element out of the housing.
The replacement element hangs on the same two lower posts during installation.

Install the replacement heating element

Slide the replacement heating element into the housing.
Reinstall the center screw with the 5/16 inch nut driver.
Keep the heater coil centered in the housing so it does not touch the metal shell.
Hang the lower slots of the heater assembly on the two lower posts.
Lift the heater into place and reinstall the upper bracket.
Reconnect each wire to the same terminal it came from.

Reassemble and test the dryer

Flip the top down and push it back onto the front clips.
Reinstall the two lint-filter screws and slide the lint filter back in.
Reinstall the back panel with the 1/4 inch screws around the perimeter.
Plug the dryer in.
Run a heated cycle and confirm that the dryer now heats.
If the dryer still tumbles without heat, continue troubleshooting beyond the heating element and thermostats.

If the dryer heats during a test cycle, the repair is complete. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot Heating Issues in a Brown Top Kenmore Dryer» — автор eCuration, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →