How to Troubleshoot a Criterion Washing Machine That Won't Drain

Criterion Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Criterion top-load washing machine won’t drain, the problem is often a siphoning issue from incorrect drain hose height, a blockage in the pump or hoses, a failed drain pump (water pump), or a wiring/control issue that prevents the pump from running. This guide walks through practical checks, pump access, obstruction removal, drain pump testing, and wiring tests used on this common Midea-built Criterion-style design.

🧰 Tools

Phillips #2 Screwdriver
10mm Socket (3/8in Drive)
Flashlight
Shop Towels
Digital Multimeter
Zip Ties
Slip Joint Pliers

⚙️ Parts

Drain pump

ШагиSteps

Prepare safely

Unplug the washing machine before touching wiring or working underneath it.
Turn off the water supply valves to reduce the risk of flooding while moving hoses.
Keep shop towels ready because water usually spills when hoses or the pump housing are opened.
Get help tilting the washer because it’s heavy and can tip unexpectedly.
Tape the lid closed before tilting the washer so it can’t flip open while the machine is on its side.
If the washer shows an E2 code, treat it as a strong clue that the drain pump circuit isn’t working, but keep troubleshooting because the code may not always appear.

Check drain hose height to prevent siphoning

Check that the end of the drain hose is set at about the same height as the rear of the washer.
Set the drain hose end about 100 cm (39 inches) above the floor.
Lower the hose if it’s routed too high because it can prevent proper draining.
Raise the hose if it’s routed too low because it can create a siphon problem that disrupts draining.
Diagram: Aim for a drain hose height that’s roughly level with the back of the washer and about 100 cm (39 inches) from the floor.

Check for a pump clean-out if the washer has one

Look for a clean-out at the bottom rear of the washer if the model includes one.
Unscrew the clean-out and check for blockages at the pump area.
Remove any debris you find, and reinstall the clean-out securely.
Not every Criterion/Midea-style model includes this clean-out, so skip this check if there isn’t one.

Siphon water out to confirm whether a blockage exists

Lower the drain hose to floor level to siphon water out of the tub, even if the pump isn’t running.
Watch for a steady flow from the hose because this confirms the drain path is at least partially open.
Stop and contain spills immediately because standing water can cause slip hazards and electrical hazards.
If no water siphons out with the hose at floor level, assume there’s an obstruction in the pump or hoses and continue to pump access.

Tilt the washer to access the drain pump

Tilt the washer onto its front or its side to access the bottom panel area.
Control the lid while lowering the washer so it can’t swing open or shift the machine’s balance.
Locate the drain pump from underneath by finding the pump body connected to a large hose.

Remove the pump housing from the tub

Put a towel under the pump area to catch water that will drain out when the pump housing is opened.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the pump housing area in place.
Some models use 10 mm hex-head screws in this location, so use the correct driver for the screw head on the washer.

Disconnect hoses and clear obstructions

Use slip joint pliers to release the clamp and remove the tub hose from the pump.
Inspect for obstructions inside the tub outlet area, inside the tub hose, and in the hose path from the pump to the outlet drain hose.
Use a flashlight to look deep into the hoses and pump openings for debris that can block flow.
Clear any blockages you find and recheck that water can flow through the drain path.
If the tub wouldn’t siphon earlier and you find a blockage here, clearing it may restore draining without replacing parts.

Access the drain pump wiring in the wire bag

Find the bagged wire cluster near the rear corner where the control board wiring routes.
Remove the screws from the back of the washer as needed to access the wire bag more easily.
Trace the drain pump wire from the pump into the wire cluster because wire colors can be hard to read and may vary by model.
Remove cable ties carefully so you can pull the drain pump wire out for testing without damaging other wires.
Work slowly around any surface-mount cable tie and any cotton wrap on the wire bundle, and keep track of how it was wrapped.
Plan to re-tie the wire bundle and tape the cotton wrap back in place so the wires can’t jostle and break during use.

Test the drain pump with a multimeter

Set a multimeter to ohms resistance.
Press the multimeter leads into the drain pump wire harness terminals to measure the pump’s resistance.
Replace the pump if the reading isn’t around 16–17 Ω, using about a 20% margin as a practical pass range.
A normal resistance reading doesn’t guarantee the pump is mechanically good, so inspect the impeller if draining still fails.

Inspect the pump impeller for mechanical damage

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws securing the pump housing to the pump motor.
Separate the pump housing from the motor to expose the impeller paddles inside.
Rotate the impeller by hand and feel for three or four firm segments that resist and then spring forward due to the internal magnets.
Replace the pump if the impeller feels very loose or stripped because it won’t move water even if the electrical test looks good.

Reinstall the pump and secure the wiring

Route the pump wiring back through the wire cluster the same way it was originally routed.
Be gentle with the wire cluster because wires can break during inspection and create new failures.
Re-tie the wire bundle and reassemble the wire bag so the wires can’t move around during operation.
Mount the wire bag back on the side of the washer using the existing metal wire tie.
Reconnect the tub hose to the pump and secure the clamp.
Reinstall the three screws that secure the pump housing to the drum area.
Secure any loose pump wires with zip ties as needed so they can’t rub or snag.

Test the pump wiring from the control board

Access the control board connections from the back of the washer or with the washer laid on its front.
Unplug the drain pump connector at the control board labeled CN5.
Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance between pin three and pin six on the wiring that runs to the pump.
Replace the control board if you have continuity from the board to the pump but the washer still won’t trigger the pump to run.
Repair the harness if you don’t have continuity because the wiring from the board to the pump is faulty, often within the wire bag area.

If the washer drains normally again after hose correction, blockage removal, pump service, or wiring repair, restore the drain hose to the proper height and secure the harness so the problem does not return. If the pump and wiring test good but the washer still will not trigger drain, the remaining fault is likely in the control path rather than the basic drain hardware. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Criterion Washing Machine That Won't Drain» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →