GE Dryer Purple Heater Wire Replacement

GEGE DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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A burnt or broken purple heater wire in your GE dryer can stop the dryer from heating or make it run poorly due to a bad connection at the heater pan. This guide shows how to replace that wire using the WE49X37037 wire kit, including cabinet access, removing the old wire from the harness, installing the new wire securely, and reassembling the dryer.

🧰 Tools

1/4" Nut Driver
Phillips #2 Screwdriver
Wire Cutter
Needle Nose Pliers
Electrical Tape
Work Gloves
Sandpaper 100 Grit
Zip Ties

⚙️ Parts

WE49X37037 - GE Dryer Heater Wire Service Kit

ШагиSteps

Prepare for service

Unplug the dryer or turn off the dryer breaker before starting.
Shut off the gas supply if working on a gas dryer.
Pull the dryer out far enough to comfortably access the rear of the cabinet.
Wear work gloves and long sleeves to protect against sharp sheet-metal edges.

Release the console and secure it to the lid

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two bottom rear screws, one on each side.
Push the console top rearward until both rear corners pop loose, using a firm tap if needed.
Rock the console up onto the top of the dryer.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two rear console screws, one on each side.
Slot the console tabs into the lid, roll the lid down, and tap the console into place so it locks to the lid.

Lift and support the top panel

Open the dryer door.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws tucked under the top front edge of the cabinet.
Roll the lid back toward the wall and rest it using the console top as a support.
Support the lid so it can’t fall if there isn’t a wall to lean it against.

Remove the door and disconnect the short harness

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two front screws, one on each side of the cabinet.
Disconnect the door light switch harness at the upper left if the model has one.
Lift the door up to release it from the three bottom hinge fingers, but keep it close because the door lock harness is very short.
Angle the door forward and rest it on a heavy box or support it with a chain to reach the harness without straining it.
Move the plastic cover aside, press the connector tab, and unplug the door switch harness from the door switch housing.
Set the door aside away from the work area.

Release belt tension and remove the drum

Reach behind the blower motor housing to find the idler pulley.
Use a hand to pull the idler pulley to the right and rest it on the motor-mount tab to hold the tension released.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley and off the motor pulley.
Move the belt away from the motor pulley area so it can’t snag when pulling the drum out.
Pull the drum out of the cabinet.

Disconnect the burnt purple wire from the heater pan

Locate the purple heater wire on the heater pan and disconnect it from the heater pan terminal.
A burnt wire may already be separated from the terminal, which can make removal easier.

Free the wire from ties tape and the motor connector

Use wire cutters to remove the plastic cable tie from the chassis, or use needle-nose pliers to pop it out from the rear if possible.
Cut the additional cable tie on the left side if needed, and avoid nicking any neighboring wires in the trunk.
Remove the two or three tape wraps that bundle the purple wire into the main wire trunk.
Press the motor harness connector tabs and unplug the harness from the motor.
Press the connector tabs on both the top and underside of the motor harness plug.

Remove the old terminal from the plastic harness housing

Study the orientation of the purple wire terminal and the housing tab so the new wire goes in the same way.
Insert a small flathead screwdriver from the wire side of the housing, press down the retainer tab, and work the terminal out of the housing.
Use a thinner screwdriver if the retainer tab is hard to reach.
Push the terminal forward while holding the tab down if pulling it rearward isn’t working.
Cut the terminal off with wire cutters after it’s pushed through if that makes it easier to fully remove the old wire from the housing.

Inspect and clean the heater pan terminal

Inspect the heater pan terminal where the purple wire attaches.
Sand the terminal with sandpaper if it shows burn marks or degradation.
Replace the heater housing if the terminal is severely burnt.

Install the new purple wire on the heater pan

Slide the new purple wire terminal from the WE49X37037 kit onto the heater pan terminal.
Press the wire into the chassis hole where the original wire routed through.
Make sure the terminal is very snug, because a loose connection is a common cause of this wire burning up.
Use needle-nose pliers to press the terminal on firmly if needed.

Secure the wire and reconnect the motor harness

Attach the purple wire back to the main harness trunk and secure it with a high-temperature cable tie or electrical tape.
Rewrap the wire trunk with two or three new strips of electrical tape where the original tape was removed.
Insert the new purple wire terminal into the motor harness housing until it clicks and locks in place.
Plug the motor harness back into the motor and confirm the top and bottom clips are fully seated.
Recheck that the purple terminal didn’t back out of the housing after plugging the harness into the motor.

Reinstall the drum and route the belt

Pull the idler pulley over and rest it on the motor-mount tab to hold tension off the belt.
Set the belt on the rear belt groove of the drum.
Slide the drum into the cabinet using the belt as a handle, and seat the rear drum bearing straight into the rear bearing housing.
Turn the drum slightly to confirm it’s seated without obstructions or unusual noises.
Wrap the belt around the motor pulley, release the idler pulley to tension the belt, and confirm the belt tracks correctly.
Turn the drum by hand and confirm the blower housing moves with it.

Reinstall the door and reconnect the harness

Set the bottom of the door onto the three hinge fingers on the chassis and pivot the door toward the bulkhead.
Support the door while reconnecting the short door switch harness.
Move the plastic cover aside and reconnect the door switch harness connector.
Seat the drum front bearing onto the door frame, and align the metal tabs on the door and chassis so the cabinet sits square.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to install the two short screws at the top left and top right of the front panel.
Reconnect the door light harness if it was unplugged.

Secure the top and test heat

Bring the top panel forward and snap it into place on the cabinet.
Restore power and run a timed heat cycle to confirm the dryer runs smoothly and heats.
Unplug the dryer again before finishing reassembly.
If there’s still no heat, recheck the motor harness connection, the purple terminal lock-in, and the heater pan terminal condition.

Reassemble the console and rear screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two long screws at the top of the door opening to secure the top to the front cabinet.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two rear cabinet screws, one on each side.
Slot the six console fingers into their holes, pivot the console into place, and tap the rear of the console to lock it.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to install the two top console screws, one on the left and one on the right.

If the new purple wire burns again, inspect the heater-pan terminal for looseness or heavy heat damage before replacing more parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«GE Dryer Purple Heater Wire Replacement» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →