How to Troubleshoot Noise Issues in a Whirlpool Direct Drive Washing Machine

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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Clicking, grinding, or squealing during wash or spin on Whirlpool direct drive (no-belt) top-load washers is often caused by a failing magnetic slider assembly (also called the slider, shifter slider, or slider kit) or a failing electromagnetic clutch (also called the clutch, shifter, or shift actuator assembly). This guide shows how to confirm the symptoms, inspect the direct drive motor parts under the machine, and replace the slider assembly (W10734521) and electromagnetic clutch (W10754448). Model applicability (known compatible examples): WTW500CMW0, WTW6150PB0, WTW6150PW0, WTW6157PB0, WTW6157PW0, WTW7000DW0, WTW7000DW1–WTW7000DW4, WTW7040DW0–WTW7040DW2, WTW7120HC0, WTW7120HC2, WTW7120HW0, WTW7120HW1, WTW7300D*, WTW7500G**, WTW8000DW*, WTW8040DW*, WTW8120H**, WTW8127L**, WTW8500DC*, WTW8500D**, WTW8700EC*, WTW9500E**, ZAW47115GW0 (asterisks indicate sub-model variants).

🧰 Tools

Hammer
Bucket
T30 Torx Screwdriver
Socket Wrench
Pick Set
Flathead Screwdriver
7mm Socket

⚙️ Parts

W10734521 Whirlpool Slider Assembly
W10734521 - Washing Machine Shift Actuator Kit
W10754448 Electromagnetic Clutch / Shift Assembly
W10754448 - Whirlpool Top Load Washer Clutch

ШагиSteps

Shut down and prepare the washer

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
Turn off both water supply valves.
Tape the lid shut so it can’t pop open while moving the washer.
Put the fill hoses into a bucket in case water drains out when the washer is tilted.
WARNING: A washer is heavy and awkward, so get help if needed, and don’t put hands under the cabinet while it’s being moved.

Lay the washer on its back

Place a blanket or furniture pad behind the washer to cushion it.
Lay the washer onto its back so the bottom is accessible.
Keep the washer mostly flat so the water valve area isn’t taking the full load.

Confirm the symptom and likely causes

Confirm the complaint: poor spinning with clicking, grinding, or squealing as the washer tries to shift into spin.
Prioritize inspecting the slider and clutch system on direct drive (no-belt) models.
Treat a grinding noise during shifting as a strong sign of a failed slider magnet that’s misaligned, cracked, or slipping.
Treat repeated failure to shift between agitate and spin as a sign the electromagnetic clutch may be failing.

Remove the rotor bolt

Use a T30 Torx screwdriver or ratchet with a Torx bit to remove the rotor bolt.
Insert a long flat bladed screwdriver into a rotor hole to lock the rotor if it wants to spin while you loosen the bolt.
Use a ratchet and hammer for extra force if the Torx bolt is stuck.

Remove and inspect the rotor and stator

Pull the rotor straight off the shaft, applying even pressure on both sides.
Brace a foot against the chassis for leverage if needed, but don’t yank one side harder than the other.
Inspect the rotor magnets and the rotor splines for rubbing, damage, or deformation.
Inspect the stator for damaged magnets or burnt copper coils.
Replace the rotor if it’s damaged, and replace the stator if coils are burnt or magnets are damaged.

Inspect the lower wire harness

Check the wire trunk in the lower right corner for disconnected, dislodged, or damaged wires.
Diagram: With the washer on its back, the harness bracket sits to the lower right of the stator area.

Release the harness clips from the bracket

Use a dental pick or hook to press the locking tabs and free the harness clips from the bracket.
Remove the clip on the machine side and the clip on the clutch and stator side.
Work from the back side closest to the tub to reach the difficult locking tabs.

Remove the stator screws

Use a 7 mm socket to remove the six screws securing the stator system.
Hold the stator as you remove the last screw so it doesn’t pop off or fall.
Three screws clamp the clutch inside the stator, and three screws secure the stator itself.

Disconnect wiring and replace the electromagnetic clutch

Flip the stator upside down and disconnect the wires from the stator harness and the electromagnetic clutch.
Use a dental pick to move the connector clip and release the harness.
Replace the electromagnetic clutch if the washer won’t shift correctly, since this part can’t be bench-tested.
Fish the clutch wires through the harness, and seat the clutch on the stator post in its only correct orientation.
Ensure the clutch is aligned to the stator, with the wires oriented toward the stator as designed.

Remove the slider assembly

Use a dental pick to wedge into the gear case teeth and pry the slider retainer clip off.
Remove the spring pack and pull the slider assembly off the gear case.
Use a small screwdriver if needed, but a pick or hook makes this much easier.

Identify a failed slider assembly

Inspect the slider magnet for slipping, off-center alignment, cracking, or distortion.
Replace the slider if the magnet isn’t perfectly aligned, since it can miss during shifting and create grinding noise.
A noisy shift from agitate to spin is commonly caused by this slider magnet problem.

Install the new slider assembly and retaining ring

Align the new slider with the gear case splines and press it fully into place.
Position the spring pack in the circular recess of the slider housing, then press the plastic retainer on top.
Install the new metal retaining ring from the slider kit.
Use the hook tool to grab the inside of the metal splines and push the ring up and over the gear case splines until it snaps in.
Confirm the circular part of the clutch faces outward so the spring pack can seat correctly.

Reinstall the stator system and harness bracket

Rotate the stator so the wire pack will align to the lower right harness location.
Hold the clutch in position and install the stator with the top of the clutch facing the gear case.
Hand-thread all six 7 mm screws while holding the assembly in place, starting with one screw to help alignment.
Tighten the screws with a socket wrench to avoid over-tightening and stripping them.
Snap both harnesses back into the bracket, noting they only fit one way because of the bracket hole shapes.

Reinstall the rotor and verify free movement

Align the rotor’s internal splines with the gearshaft and press the rotor on until it grabs and seats.
Keep fingers clear as the rotor snaps into place to avoid pinching.
Install the rotor screw from the slider kit, or reuse the old screw only if it has threadlocker on it.
Use a T30 Torx screwdriver to reinstall the rotor bolt, and tighten it very snug.
Rotate the assembly by hand to ensure it spins freely without rubbing or binding.
If it doesn’t spin freely, recheck rotor alignment and confirm the stator is tight against the gear case.

Return the washer to service position

Stand the washer upright.
Reconnect the water hoses to the valves.
Plug the washer back in.

Run calibration style one

Turn the water valves on for calibration.
Make sure the washer is plugged in and the screen is off.
Press Temperature, Soil, and Spin Speed in order three times to enter diagnostics.
Press the second button in the sequence (Soil) to reach the numbered options screen.
Use Temperature and Spin Speed to cycle to option 52, then start the recalibration mode.

Run calibration style two

Make sure the screen is powered off, then press any three console buttons in order three times to enter diagnostics.
Use the two scroll keys to move left and right through the diagnostic options.
Cycle to the DLMS calibration mode, then press Start/Pause to begin calibration.

Troubleshoot if noise remains

If the noise or no-spin condition remains, recheck that all harness clips are fully seated and all stator screws are tight.
If the rotor or stator showed rubbing, burnt coils, or damaged magnets during inspection, replace the damaged part before running the washer.
If the washer still has abnormal noise, an obstruction under the tub may be involved.

If the washer shifts and spins normally again after slider or clutch repair, finish by running the appropriate calibration so the control relearns the drive system correctly. If clicking or grinding remains after the slider, clutch, and harness checks, continue by inspecting for rotor, stator, or under-tub interference before replacing more parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot Noise Issues in a Whirlpool Direct Drive Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →