How to Troubleshoot No Heat Issues in a Frigidaire Dryer

FrigidaireFrigidaire DryerModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Frigidaire or Electrolux stackable front-load dryer runs but won’t heat (or shows an E64 error code), the problem is usually a power-supply issue, a blown safety fuse, a failed thermostat or thermistor (temperature sensor), a failed heating element, restricted airflow from lint, or a control board that isn’t sending power to the heater. This guide walks through safe power checks, disassembly, and multimeter testing so you can find the failed part and replace it.

🧰 Tools

Needle Nose Pliers
Cordless Driver/Drill
Phillips #2 Screwdriver
Work Gloves
Digital Multimeter
Vacuum Cleaner
Angled Socket Wrench

⚙️ Parts

137032600 Frigidaire Dryer Thermal Fuse
137032600 - Frigidaire Dryer Thermal Limiter
Electrolux Heater - 137114000
137114000 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Heating Cannister
Frigidaire Dryer Heating 3 Coil Element Assembly 5500 Watt - 134792700
134792700 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Heating Cannister kit
Electrolux Dryer Safety Thermostat - 3204267
3204267 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Thermostat
134587700 Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryer Thermistor
134587700 - Frigidaire Dryer Control Thermistor

ШагиSteps

Prepare and gather tools

Let the dryer cool completely before touching any heating parts.
Unplug the dryer before disassembly or resistance testing.
Wear work gloves because the cabinet and internal brackets can have sharp edges.
Gather a Phillips head screwdriver, a multimeter, and a vacuum or flexible vent-cleaning attachment.
Use a drill/driver with a Phillips bit to speed up screw removal if available.

Verify the dryer has proper 240 V power

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single screw securing the rear metal terminal-block cover.
Inspect the terminal block and power cord for blackening, melted plastic, or burnt wiring.
Set a multimeter to AC voltage and carefully probe the terminal block with the dryer plugged in.
Measure center-to-left for about 120 V AC, center-to-right for about 120 V AC, and left-to-right for about 208–240 V AC.
If you read under about 208 V across the two outer terminals, or under 120 V on either side to center, fix the house power issue before replacing dryer parts.
Cycle the breaker fully off and then fully on, and test the wall outlet if the terminal-block voltage is low.

Remove the top panel and disconnect power

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the rear edge of the top panel.
Slide the top panel back, and lift it away from the dryer.
Look for a folded technician sheet under the top panel and set it aside for later reference.
Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet.

Remove the user interface and free the harness

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the user interface to the bulkhead.
Disconnect the user-interface wire from the control area so the interface can come off.
Remove the two screws from the metal bracket that holds the harness if it helps you access the connector.
Photograph any control-board wiring you unplug so you can reinstall each connector in the correct location.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the dryer control board cross plate so the control board can move.

Remove the front panel

Open the door and remove the two screws securing the front panel to the gray bulkhead.
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the lint filter housing.
Close the door, and remove the two bottom screws near the lower left and lower right sides of the front panel.
Remove the two top screws at the upper left and upper right corners of the front panel.
Lift the front panel slightly, support it, and disconnect the door switch wiring located between the door and the bulkhead.

Remove the bulkhead

Disconnect the door light switch connector from the control board, and record its location with a photo.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two lower screws securing the bulkhead.
Lift the bulkhead up, and gently pull it forward.
Use needle nose pliers to pinch and release the cable tie holding the door switch harness at the lower right corner without cutting it.
Remove the bulkhead from the dryer, or set it to the side if the wiring allows.

Remove the drum

Reach into the right side of the dryer and locate the idler pulley behind the blower and motor assembly.
Pull the idler pulley to the left to release belt tension, and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
Use the belt as a handle to lift the drum up and out of the dryer.
Avoid grabbing cabinet edges while lifting because the sheet metal can be sharp.

Inspect and clean lint buildup

Inspect the lint filter housing and internal ducting for packed lint.
Use a vacuum and a flexible attachment to remove lint from hard-to-reach areas.
Remove any large lint clumps by hand if the vacuum hose keeps clogging.
Clean the venting system if the dryer overheated, because airflow restrictions commonly cause fuses to blow.

Test the blower thermistor

Pull the two wire terminals off the black blower thermistor.
Set a multimeter to resistance in ohms, and use a 20 kΩ to 200 kΩ range if the meter is not auto-ranging.
Measure across the thermistor terminals and look for 50,000–55,000 Ω (50–55 kΩ) at room temperature.
Replace the thermistor if the reading is far outside range or the meter shows OL, which means an open circuit.
Use the correct Frigidaire-style thermistor because look-alike thermistors from other brands can have different resistance values.
Use thermistor part number 134587700 when it matches the model.

Test the vent outlet fuse for continuity

Pull the wires off the vent outlet fuse on the vent pipe or blower housing area.
Set the multimeter to ohms or continuity mode, and measure across the fuse terminals.
Replace the fuse if it reads OL, and keep it if it reads 0.00 Ω or very close to it.

Test the heater thermostat and thermal fuse

Locate the heating canister at the bottom of the dryer and identify the rear thermostat and the middle thermal fuse.
Pull the wires off the rear thermostat, set the multimeter to ohms or continuity, and test for about 0.00 Ω.
Pull the wires off the thermal fuse and test for about 0.00 Ω.
Replace any device that shows OL because an open fuse or thermostat will stop the dryer from heating.
Replace the thermal fuse and clean the lint and venting if the fuse is blown because it usually trips from overheating.
Consider replacing the thermostat at the same time because it can fail in a way that still looks good on a multimeter.
Use thermal fuse part number 137032600 and thermostat part number 3204267 when they match the model.

Test the heating element for opens and shorts

Remove all wire connectors from the heating element terminals before testing resistance.
For a three-plus-one terminal element, measure between the single right terminal and each left terminal for 25–30 Ω.
For a three-plus-one terminal element, measure between left-side terminals and look for about 50 Ω.
For a two-wire element, measure across the two terminals and look for roughly 10 Ω.
Replace the heating canister if any required measurement shows OL, because that indicates a broken heating coil.
Test for a grounded coil by placing one meter lead on the metal canister and the other on each terminal, and replace the canister if you get anything other than OL.

Remove the heating canister

Photograph and label wire colors and locations on the sensors and heating element so same-color wires don’t get swapped.
Disconnect all wires from the sensors and the heating element terminals.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the heating canister feet to the dryer chassis.
Remove the small screw at the rear right side of the bulkhead that also holds the canister if your model has it.
Use an angled wrench or a very short stubby Phillips head screwdriver to reach the rear screw.

Transfer sensors and rebuild the canister assembly

Remove each sensor from the old canister by taking out its two small screws.
Remove the two screws on the inside lip of the element opening, and bend the faceplate slightly if needed to access them.
Remove the front cover of the heating element assembly.
Install the thermal fuse into the replacement canister and secure it with the small screws.
Seat the canister legs into their recesses to align the assembly, and reinstall the two screws that secure the element to the feet.
Press any bent metal back closer to the canister so the cover fits correctly.

Install the heating canister and reconnect wiring

Set the heating canister into the chassis so the feet tabs drop into the bottom slots and the canister seats snugly into the rear bulkhead.
Reinstall the two feet screws and reinstall the rear bulkhead screw if present.
Reconnect every wire to the correct terminal using the photos you took as a reference.
Reroute the wire trunk for more slack if an aftermarket canister terminal doesn’t line up well, but don’t force or bend the spade connector.
Secure the wire trunk with a high-temperature cable tie if needed.
Use heating canister part number 137114000 when it matches the correct two-wire or three-plus-one configuration for the model.
Remove the entire rear panel for more access room if needed, but expect many screws.

Reinstall the drum, bulkhead, and front panel

Confirm the idler pulley spring is attached and the belt is wrapped around the drum on the wear ridge.
Lower the drum into the cabinet so it rests on the rear bulkhead between the rear roller wheels.
Pull the idler pulley to the left and loop the belt around the motor pulley with the belt ribs facing the inside of the drum.
Rotate the drum by hand to confirm smooth movement and that it spins the blower wheel without unusual noise.
Set the bulkhead onto its side tabs, align the top tabs, and reinstall the two lower bulkhead screws.
Snap the door switch harness back into the bulkhead and reconnect the door light switch to the control board.
Hang the front panel on its four chassis tabs, reconnect the door wire harness, and reinstall the top screws and lint filter housing screws.
Reconnect the user-interface harness to the correct control-board receptacle and seat the interface tabs into the front panel.

Inspect the control board if all heater parts test good

Unplug the dryer and photograph all control board connectors before removing any wiring.
Remove the two screws securing the crossbar that holds the control board, and move the wire trunk if it blocks a screw.
Lift the board up, disconnect all harnesses, and remove the board from the dryer.
Pry the five or six locking tabs to remove the board cover, and pull the board out.
Inspect for a burnt relay, burnt traces on the underside, or damaged solder joints that could prevent the heater from getting power.

Perform advanced live voltage testing at the control board

This step involves live 240 V testing, and it can cause serious injury or death if done incorrectly.
Reinstall all control-board wire harnesses but leave the board unscrewed so you can access the pins.
Use the technician sheet schematic to identify heating-element output pins J52, J71, and J73.
Plug the dryer in, set the multimeter to AC voltage, and run the dryer while keeping hands clear of all moving parts.
Put one meter lead on the terminal block at the black wire feeding the motor system, and probe J52, J71, and J73 to look for over 200 V.
Replace the control board if the heater outputs read under 200 V while the dryer is calling for heat.

Close up and retest heating

Reinstall the rear terminal-block cover before operating the dryer.
Plug the dryer in and run a heated cycle to confirm the drum turns, airflow is strong, and the dryer heats normally.
Recheck venting and lint buildup if the dryer heats but still dries slowly.

If the heater circuit tests good and the dryer heats normally after reassembly, finish by clearing lint and airflow restrictions so the same overheat failure does not return. If the heater parts all pass but the dryer still will not heat, the remaining fault is likely in the wiring or control-board output path. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot No Heat Issues in a Frigidaire Dryer» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →