How to Troubleshoot a Noisy Whirlpool Direct Drive Top-Load Washer

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 2 hours

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If a Whirlpool top-load washer with a direct drive (VMAX) motor makes clicking, grinding, or squealing noises during wash or spin, it may not be shifting correctly between agitate and spin. The most common causes are a failed magnetic slider (slider system, magnetic slider assembly, or shifter slider) and a failing electromagnetic clutch (clutch magnet assembly or clutch shift assembly). Known compatible models include: WTW500CMW0, WTW6150PB0, WTW6150PW0, WTW6157PB0, WTW6157PW0, WTW7000DW0, WTW7000DW1 through 4, WTW7040DW0 through 2, WTW7120HC0 and 2, WTW7120HW0 and 1, WTW7300D*, WTW7500G**, WTW8000DW*, WTW8040DW*, WTW8120H**, WTW8127L**, WTW8500DC*, WTW8500D**, WTW8700EC*, WTW9500E**, ZAW47115GW0.

🧰 Tools

T30 Torx Screwdriver
Ratchet
Long Flathead screwdriver
Probe and Pick Set
7mm Socket
Socket 10mm
Bucket

⚙️ Parts

magnetic slider assembly
Electromagnetic clutch

ШагиSteps

Prepare for safety and access

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
Turn off both water supply valves.
Tape the lid closed so it can’t pop open while the washer is tipped over.
Place the drain hose into a bucket in case water drains out when the washer is laid back.
Lay down a blanket or furniture pad to protect the washer and keep it stable on its back.
WARNING: Get help tipping the washer if needed, because it’s heavy and can cause injury if it falls.

Lay the washer on its back

Carefully lay the washer on its back on the blanket or furniture pad.
Keep the water valve area supported so it doesn’t get crushed while the washer is lying down.

Remove the rotor bolt

Use a T30 Torx screwdriver to remove the bolt from the center of the rotor.
If the bolt is stuck, insert a long flathead screwdriver into a rotor hole to lock it while you turn the Torx driver.
If it still will not break loose, switch to a ratchet with a T30 Torx bit for more leverage.

Remove the rotor

Pull the rotor straight off the gearshaft.
Brace against the chassis if needed to get enough force to pull it free.
Pull evenly on both sides so you don’t cock the rotor and damage the magnets underneath.

Inspect the rotor and stator for damage

Inspect the rotor magnets for damage, rubbing marks, or anything that looks abnormal.
Inspect the splines inside the rotor for damage that could cause noise or slipping.
Inspect the stator for damaged magnets or burnt copper coils.
Replace the rotor if it’s damaged, because damaged magnets or splines can cause grinding noises.
Replace the stator if magnets are damaged or coils are burnt, because it won’t drive correctly.
Some stators have a long factory warranty, so check coverage before buying parts.

Check the lower harness and wire routing

Inspect the wire trunk in the lower right corner for disconnected, dislodged, or damaged wiring.
Make sure all wiring is secure before replacing parts.

Disconnect the stator and clutch harnesses

Release the two harness clips on each side of the bracket.
Use a hooked pick to press the clip tabs from the back side closest to the tub.
Lift both harnesses out of the bracket so the stator assembly can be removed.

Remove the stator assembly

Use a 7 mm socket to remove the six screws from the stator assembly.
Hold the stator with one hand as you remove the last screw so it doesn’t drop.
Note that three screws hold the clutch sandwiched into the stator, and three screws hold the stator itself.

Replace the electromagnetic clutch

Flip the stator over so you can access the clutch and wiring.
Use a pick to release the wiring clip and disconnect the clutch wiring from the harness.
Remove the old clutch and install the new W10754448 electromagnetic clutch.
Route the wires back through the harness and seat the clutch on the stator post so it aligns correctly.
Orient the clutch so the wires naturally reach the stator, because it only seats one way.
The clutch cannot be easily bench-tested, so replacement is often the practical next step when shifting problems persist.

Remove the magnetic slider assembly

Use a dental pick to wedge into the gearcase teeth and pry off the slider retainer clip.
Use a small screwdriver if you don’t have a pick, because the clip is difficult to remove by hand.
Pull off the spring pack and the slider assembly.

Inspect and install the new slider

Inspect the slider’s magnet for slipping, misalignment, cracks, or a misshapen position.
Replace the slider if the magnet isn’t perfectly aligned, because it can miss during shifting and cause grinding noises.
Align the new W10734521 magnetic slider assembly with the gearcase splines and press it into place.
Position the slider so the circular clutch surface faces outward to accept the spring pack.
Set the spring pack into the circular recess, and press the plastic retainer on top.

Install the slider retaining ring

Install the metal retaining ring from the slider kit onto the gearcase splines.
Hook the inside of the ring with a pick, then push it up and over the splines until it snaps into place.
Keep control of the pick and ring so they do not slip into your hands or nearby wiring.

Reinstall the stator and harness bracket

Rotate the stator to orient the wire pack toward the lower right harness location.
Hold the clutch in place as needed, because it can fall off the stator posts during installation.
Position the stator so the top of the clutch faces the gearcase.
Hand-thread all six 7 mm stator screws while holding the assembly in place, starting with a single screw to help alignment.
Tighten the screws with a socket wrench so you don’t over-tighten and strip them.
Snap the wire pack back into the bracket, aligning it to the bracket shape because the connectors only fit one way.

Reinstall the rotor and center bolt

Align the splines inside the rotor to the gearshaft splines, then seat the rotor onto the shaft.
Caution: Keep fingers clear as the rotor pulls itself in and snaps into place.
Install the rotor bolt using the replacement screw from the slider kit if provided.
Apply threadlocker to the old bolt if you aren’t using a new bolt with pre-applied threadlocker.
Use a T30 Torx driver to tighten the bolt until it is very snug, using a flathead screwdriver to lock the rotor if needed.

Check your work and set the washer upright

Rotate the assembly by hand to confirm it spins freely.
If it doesn’t spin freely, recheck stator seating, screw tightness, and rotor alignment.
Return the washer to the upright position.
Reconnect the water hoses, turn on the water valves, and plug the washer back in.

Run the washer calibration routine

Keep the washer plugged in with the console screen off, and make sure the water valves are on.
On one common console style, press Temperature, Soil, and Spin Speed in order three times to enter diagnostics.
Press the second button used in the sequence to reach the screen with numbers.
Use the Temperature and Spin Speed buttons to cycle to option 52, then start recalibration.
On another console style, press any three buttons in order three times with the screen off to enter diagnostics.
Use the scroll keys to select DLMS calibration, then press Start/Pause to begin.

Continue diagnosis if the noise remains

If the washer still makes noise after slider and clutch replacement, check for something stuck under the tub.
Most noise and no-spin issues on this design come from the clutch, slider, stator, or rotor system, so recheck those areas for missed damage.

If the washer shifts smoothly and spins without grinding or clicking after calibration, the repair is complete. If the rotor doesn’t turn freely by hand, stop and recheck rotor spline alignment, stator seating, and screw tightness before running a cycle. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Noisy Whirlpool Direct Drive Top-Load Washer» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →