How to Troubleshoot a Whirlpool Washing Machine That Won't Turn Off

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

Инструкция на английском (оригинал iFixit). Непонятные термины — в разделе «Основы → Словарь».

If a Whirlpool washing machine keeps running with an ongoing humming sound, won’t respond to the controls, or starts running again as soon as you plug it in, it may be stuck in flood-control mode. This guide shows how to let the washer exit flood-control mode, check common causes like the drain hose and drain pump, safely drain standing water, and determine when the control board may need service.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
Multimeter
5/16 Inch Nut Driver
Shop Towel
Slip Joint Pliers
Project Tray

⚙️ Parts

Drain pump
Control board

ШагиSteps

Prepare safely

Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.
Turn off the water supply valves if you’ll be moving the washer or disconnecting hoses.
Keep towels and a shallow pan nearby because water can spill when hoses are removed.
Get help when tilting the washer because it’s heavy and can tip unexpectedly.

Confirm the flood-control symptom

Listen for a continuous running noise even though the washer isn’t supposed to be running.
Try changing modes or starting a cycle and confirm the controls don’t respond.
Plug the washer in and confirm the noise comes back immediately.
The sound is typically the drain pump motor running continuously.

Let the washer exit flood-control mode

Plug the washer in and leave it alone while the drain pump runs.
Set a timer or alarm and wait until the pump shuts off on its own.
Confirm the washer becomes quiet and the lid unlocks.
Confirm the control panel responds again after the pump stops.

Understand flood-control mode

Don’t start a new wash mode immediately after the pump stops.
Flood-control mode is when the washer thinks it’s about to flood and runs the pump to dump water as fast as possible.
There may be no water in the drum even though the washer is trying to drain.
Find and correct the cause first or the washer may trigger flood-control mode again within 5 to 10 minutes.

Check the drain hose

Inspect the drain hose where it enters the standpipe and make sure it isn’t shoved deep into the pipe.
Check the full length of the hose for kinks or visible obstructions.
Fix any hose placement issues that could cause backflow or prevent proper draining.

Drain standing water from the tub

Move the drain hose so the end of the hose is level with the floor.
Let the tub drain out through the hose into a container as needed.
Stop if water is overflowing and empty the container before continuing.

Access the drain pump

Tilt the washer back to at least a 45-degree angle to access the components underneath.
Locate the drain pump on the right side underneath the washer.
Let the drain pump cool before touching it because it may be extremely hot after running for 15 to 25 minutes.

Disconnect the drain hose from the pump

Use slip-joint pliers to release the hose clamp on the drain pump.
Twist the hose while pulling to work it off the pump housing.
Be prepared for water to drain out as soon as the hose comes off.

Remove the drain pump

Disconnect the wires from the drain pump wire harness.
Pivot any wire-harness protector off the pump housing if it’s covering the connector.
Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the drain pump mounting screws.
Watch for water dripping from the tub or hoses as the pump is loosened.
Remove the pump, and twist the hose off if it’s still attached.

Inspect the drain pump impeller

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five Phillips screws holding the pump housing together if you want to inspect the pump internally.
Spin the impeller by hand to feel for magnetic resistance in three to four specific spots each rotation.
Replace the pump if the resistance feels very weak, sporadic, or the impeller feels loose.
Skip opening the housing if the plan is to swap the pump instead of inspecting it.

Optionally test the pump electrically

Use a multimeter to measure the drain pump’s resistance if you want an additional test.
Expect a reading between 5 and 10 ohms.
Don’t rely on this test alone because resistance readings aren’t always accurate for declaring a pump bad.

Reinstall the drain pump

Push the drain hose onto the pump without installing the clamp yet.
Secure the pump to the washer tub with the 5/16-inch mounting screws.
Reconnect the wire harness and pivot the harness protector back into place.
Reinstall the hose clamp to lock the hose onto the pump housing.

Decide when to seek professional service

Plug the washer in and confirm the pump doesn’t run nonstop and the controls respond normally.
Stop troubleshooting if the washer keeps running in flood-control mode even after checking the drain hose and replacing the drain pump.
A failed pump relay on the control board can keep the drain pump running and may require relay replacement with soldering or a control board replacement.
Contact a qualified appliance technician if you’re not comfortable with electrical diagnosis or soldering.

If the washer stops acting like it is stuck on after the hose routing and pump checks, flood-control mode was likely doing its job in response to a drain or backflow problem. If the drain pump still runs nonstop after those checks and a pump replacement, the control circuit is the next place to diagnose. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Whirlpool Washing Machine That Won't Turn Off» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →