How to Troubleshoot a Kenmore Electric Dryer That Won't Heat

KenmoreKenmore DryerModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

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If a Kenmore electric dryer runs but doesn’t heat, the cause is often loss of 240 V power to the dryer or a failed safety device in the heating circuit. This guide walks you through confirming the dryer style, checking the supply voltage with a multimeter, opening the cabinet, and testing the main heating components so you can identify what needs to be replaced.

🧰 Tools

6-in-1 Screwdriver
Multimeter
Putty Knife
Drill
Work Gloves
Safety Glasses

⚙️ Parts

Heating element assembly
High limit cutoff thermal fuse
Heater thermostat
Cycling thermostat
Timer

ШагиSteps

Confirm the dryer style

Check whether the dryer has a lint screen housing at the top of the cabinet near the door opening.
This style is commonly used on Kenmore electric dryers built on a Whirlpool-style platform, and the access and testing steps below match that layout.
If the lint screen layout is different, use the same testing ideas, but expect the cabinet disassembly to differ.

Gather tools and prepare the workspace

Gather a 6-in-1 screwdriver with 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch nut drivers, a multimeter, and a putty knife.
Use a drill with nut driver bits if you want to remove screws faster.
Wear work gloves and safety glasses to protect against sharp sheet-metal edges.

Access the terminal block for voltage testing

Unplug the dryer or switch off the dryer breaker before removing any covers.
Remove the small terminal block cover on the back of the dryer to expose the power cord connections.
Keep hands clear of the terminals when power is restored for testing.

Test for correct voltage at the terminal block

Restore power and set the multimeter to measure AC volts.
Measure from the first hot leg to neutral and confirm about 120 V.
Measure from the second hot leg to neutral and confirm about 120 V.
Measure between the two hot legs and confirm about 240 V.
If the hot-to-hot reading is much less than 200 V, the problem is likely the house power, breaker, or power cord, not the dryer’s heating components.
Reset the breaker fully by switching it off and back on if voltage is missing on either leg.
Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker again before continuing.

Remove the rear panel to access the heating system

Use a nut driver to remove about eight screws securing the back panel.
Lift the back panel off to expose the heating system and its sensors.
Handle the panel carefully because the edges can be sharp.

Identify the heating components

Locate the heating element housing and the thermostats and fuses attached to the heating system.
Pay attention to each component name and location so you order the correct replacement part if one fails.
Diagram: [Back of dryer] Terminal block cover (top-center) → Heater housing (right side) → Sensors mounted on or near the heater housing.

Set up the multimeter and disconnect wires correctly

Set the multimeter to continuity mode or to resistance if your meter doesn’t have a continuity buzzer.
Take a photo of the wire locations before removing any connectors.
Pull at least one spade connector off the component being tested.
Testing with both spade connectors attached can backfeed through wiring and give a false “good” reading.

Test the thermostat

Touch the multimeter probes to the thermostat terminals and check for continuity.
Continuity means the thermostat is good, and an open loop reading means the thermostat is bad.

Test the heating element for continuity and resistance

Remove the spade connectors from the heating element terminals.
Check the heating element terminals for continuity.
Switch to resistance and confirm the element reads about 10 ohms, which may take a few seconds to stabilize on the meter.

Check the heating element for a short to the housing

Place one probe on a heating element spade terminal and place the other probe on the metal heater housing.
A good element shows no continuity to the housing, and continuity indicates the element is grounded and the heater assembly needs replacement.

Test the cycling thermostat

Test the two cycling thermostat terminals with the red wires for continuity because they control the primary heat function.
Test the two cycling thermostat terminals with the purple wires using resistance because they control delicate or lower heat settings.
A typical acceptable resistance range for the purple-wire terminals is about 3.6k to 7.2k ohms, and a reading drastically outside that range suggests replacement.

Test the high limit cutoff thermal fuse and inspect airflow

Test the high limit cutoff, sometimes called the thermal fuse, for continuity.
Replace the high limit cutoff if it reads open, and strongly consider replacing the matching thermostat near the heating element at the same time.
Inspect the blower housing and the vent pipe for excessive lint and clean them to prevent overheating and repeat failures.

Access and test the timer if the heater circuit tests good

Unplug the dryer before opening the control area.
Insert a putty knife into the seam between the top and the chassis at the far left side and push in hard to release the spring clip.
Release the spring clip on the far right side, then roll the top forward to lift the console for easier timer access.
Disconnect the left harness and leave the right harness in place.
Set the timer to a high heat setting and check the three specified timer contacts for continuity.
If any of the three contacts read open on high heat, the timer is bad.

Reassemble and consider less common causes

Reconnect every wire to its original terminal using your photo as a reference.
Reinstall the console and the rear panel, then restore power and run a timed high heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats.
If the timer and heating circuit test good, look for a loose wire connection or model-specific modules such as a heat relay or belt switch.

If the heater circuit tests good but the dryer still won’t heat, recheck the incoming power, timer contacts, and any model-specific safety or relay controls before replacing more parts. After the repair, keep the lint path and exterior vent clear to prevent repeat overheating failures. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Kenmore Electric Dryer That Won't Heat» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →