How to Stabilize Excessive Bouncing in a Whirlpool Top Load Washing Machine

WhirlpoolWhirlpool Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If a Whirlpool (and many compatible Maytag) top-load washing machine bangs, walks, or violently bounces during spin, worn suspension rod dampers are a common cause. This guide shows how to confirm the suspension rods are the problem, open the washer, and tighten the suspension rod collar using a thick safety pin (or a straight pin) to reduce play and improve stability. Use this hack when the suspension rod cups and springs are intact, but the damper collar has excessive looseness.

🧰 Tools

1/4 inch nut driver
Putty Knife
6-in-1 Screwdriver
Precision Needle-nose Pliers
Flush Cutter
Nitrile Gloves
Masking Tape

⚙️ Parts

Safety Pins
Straight pins
Suspension rod set

ШагиSteps

Confirm the suspension rods are the problem

Open the lid, press down firmly on the agitator or wash plate, and release it.
If the basket bounces around in multiple directions instead of snapping back up quickly, the suspension rods are worn.
If the basket doesn’t bounce like this, this pin hack likely won’t help, and another problem may be causing the shaking.

Unplug and set up safely

Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.
Move the washer to a workspace where the top can pivot up and rest against a wall.
WARNING: Don’t work on a washer that’s plugged in, and don’t run a spin test with panels open or hands inside the chassis.
Caution: The tub is heavy, and the cabinet edges can be sharp, so wear gloves and keep fingers clear of pinch points.

Remove the rear screws and release the top

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three screws along the back edge of the top panel.
Remove the metal plate held by the middle rear screw on the left side, and keep the screws together for reassembly.
Pull the washer top toward the front, lift it slightly, and push it toward the back to release it.
Pivot the top up and toward the back of the washer.

Support the top and inspect the suspension cups

Rest the raised top against a wall, using the two rear metal fingers that slot into the top as supports.
Apply masking tape between the lid and the top to prevent the lid from falling and slamming into the console area.
Locate the four suspension rods, one in each corner, and inspect the plastic cups at the top of each rod.
If any cup is cracked or damaged, replace the suspension rods, because the cups aren’t serviced separately.

Remove one suspension rod

Put on rubber gloves to improve grip on the suspension rod.
Reach into the cabinet, grip a suspension rod, and pull it straight up to unload it.
Pull the plastic retainer cup off the rod’s hook, and slowly let the rod drop down into the cabinet.
Caution: Replace and modify only one rod at a time on this style of washer, because the tub weight can shift when multiple rods are removed.
Lower the top, tilt the washer backward, and work the rod down and through the bottom hole in its corner to remove it.

Choose a pin that fits the collar tightly

Check the rod’s upper collar area for looseness, because this damper collar is the part that commonly wears out and creates bouncing.
Use a thick, large safety pin, or use a straight pin if it’s sturdier than the safety pins you have.
If a safety pin is too small or thin, it may not tighten the collar enough to help.

Prepare the pin and split the collar

If using a safety pin, straighten it, and cut off the latch end so you have a straight piece of stiff wire.
Use a putty knife or a very thin flathead screwdriver to separate the collar into two pieces.
Work the putty knife around the collar until it pops apart into an upper piece and a lower piece.
Set aside the lower piece and keep the upper collar piece accessible for the pin installation.

Install and secure the pin in the collar

Point the pin’s sharp end toward the top of the upper collar piece.
Pull the collar down onto the pin instead of pushing the pin into the collar.
Work the pin down through the plastic as close to the metal rod as possible until the tip pierces through.
Use needle-nose pliers to bend the exposed tip back against the top of the collar.
If the pin is too close to grab, use a putty knife to bend it enough to catch with the pliers.
Bend the bottom of the pin down and under the collar in a U-shape so it can’t fall off.
Caution: The pin is sharp, so keep hands clear of the point while bending and trimming.

Reinstall the suspension rod

Tilt the washer backward and insert the rod up through the bottom hole in the tub corner.
Hold the rod in place using the top of the collar while tilting the washer back onto the floor.
Raise the top again, pull the rod up into the metal housing, and reinstall the plastic retainer cup on the rod hook.
Seat the rod at about the 3 o’clock or 9 o’clock position relative to the slot, or the washer can lean to one side.

Modify the remaining three rods

Repeat the removal, collar-splitting, pin install, and reinstallation process for the remaining three suspension rods.
Expect the collar to feel much tighter after the pin is installed, which is the goal of the hack.
Navigate carefully around the pressure hose and wire trunk near the back right corner while routing that rod.

Close up the washer and test for improved stability

Lower the top, remove the masking tape, and reinstall the three rear screws and the metal plate.
Move the washer back into place, plug it in, and put the drain hose back into the standpipe.
Run a spin test and watch for brief initial banging that quickly levels out into a stable spin.
Level the washer if needed, because an unleveled washer can still shake even with improved suspension.
Consider recalibrating the washer before judging the final results of the suspension test.

Decide whether the hack is enough or replacement is needed

Use thicker-gauge pins, or consider adding two pins per collar, if the collar still slides too easily after the first pin.
Replace the suspension rods if the plastic cups are damaged, if the hack doesn’t control bouncing, or if the springs are physically worn out.
Use OEM suspension rods matched to the exact model if replacement is needed, because fit and performance can vary.

A properly tightened collar should make the tub snap back more firmly and reduce "basketball" bouncing during spin. If the washer still shakes hard after pinning all four collars and leveling the machine, replace the suspension rods and any damaged cups with a model-correct set. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Stabilize Excessive Bouncing in a Whirlpool Top Load Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →