How to Fix the Criterion Washing Machine E3 Error Code

Criterion Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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An E3 error on a Criterion top-load washing machine commonly points to a lid lock system problem. This guide walks you through quick checks, safe disassembly, lid lock and magnetic switch testing, and replacement. These steps also apply to many similar Midea-manufactured washers sold under other brand names with the same lid lock design.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Multimeter
Strong magnet
Painter’s tape
Wood Block
Work Gloves

⚙️ Parts

Lid lock
Magnetic switch
Control board

ШагиSteps

Check the lid lock area and lid alignment

Inspect the lid lock housing for debris, and remove anything that could block the latch or switch movement.
Close the lid and confirm it sits flush against the top of the washer on all sides.
Make sure the lid can fully seat, because a magnet in the lid must align with the switch to let the lock cycle on and off.
If the lid is misaligned or held up by an obstruction, the washer may throw an E3 error even if the parts are good.

Gather tools and plan for safe testing

Get a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter, and a strong magnet.
Have painter’s tape ready to control the lid while the top is off.
Prepare a wood block to prop the lid open for two-handed testing.
Caution: A washer contains sharp sheet metal edges, so wear cut-resistant gloves if available.

Disconnect power and water

Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet.
Shut off the water supply valves.
Remove the water hoses and the drain hose as needed, and keep them suspended to reduce spills.
WARNING: Don’t work on wiring with the washer plugged in, because live voltage can cause serious injury.

Remove the rear top screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws at the rear of the machine, one on the left and one on the right.
Set the screws aside so you can reinstall them after testing.

Lift the top and secure the lid

Position the washer close to a wall so the lid can pivot up and rest against the wall behind it.
Apply painter’s tape across the lid to control it while it pivots upward.
Pull the top toward you, then lift it up so the lid can pivot up and away from the machine.
Hold the lid while pivoting if needed, especially if tape isn’t holding it securely.
Caution: Watch the impact switch at the back left corner, because it can restrict movement and catch while the lid is raised or lowered.
Prop the lid open with a wood block so you can work with both hands.

Access the lid lock and magnetic switch

Locate the switch assembly in the upper right corner under the lid.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the plastic cover over the switch assembly.
Lift off the cover to expose the lid lock system.
Illustration: The assembly contains a black lid lock and a white magnetic switch with a smaller yellow wire.

Remove the lid lock

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the lid lock in place.
Lift the lid lock out of its housing.
Press in the small retainer tab on the wire harness clip, and pull the harness free from the casing.

Remove the magnetic switch

Use a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the tiny screw securing the magnetic switch.
Lift the magnetic switch out of the housing and separate it from its wire harness connector.
Space is tight here, so a small driver or a Phillips bit can be easier to maneuver.

Test the magnetic switch with a magnet

Set a multimeter to continuity or ohms resistance.
Press the multimeter leads into the magnetic switch harness contacts wherever you can touch metal, either at the front or just behind the plug.
Move a strong magnet close to the switch, and watch for the reading to change from open loop to continuity near 0.0 Ω.
If the switch won’t trigger with a magnet, replace the magnetic switch.
Reminder: The lid contains a magnet near the switch location, so a good switch can still fail in use if the lid magnet or alignment is the real problem.

Check for lid magnet and obstruction issues

Inspect the lid area near the switch location for damage or anything preventing the magnetic switch from cycling correctly.
Test the switch behavior with the top open if you suspect the lid magnet or an obstruction is the real issue.

Test the lid lock with a multimeter

Confirm the white lock bar can be pressed in and out without obstruction.
Insert multimeter leads into the lid lock connector to test resistance on the correct wire pairs.
Measure blue-to-blue and confirm it reads between 30 and 60 Ω.
Measure the pair of black wires and confirm it reads OL with the bar extended and 50 to 80 Ω when the bar is pressed into the housing.
If the black-wire test still shows OL while the bar is pressed in, replace the lid lock.

Install the replacement switch parts and close the cover

Replace failed parts using the correct part numbers: lid lock 17438000001615 and magnetic switch 17438000000221.
Position the magnetic switch in the housing and reinstall its screw.
Set the lid lock onto its two locating pegs, reinstall the two Phillips screws, and clip the wire harness into its retainer.
Reinstall the plastic cover over the switches and install the three Phillips screws.
The parts are inexpensive, so replacing both can be reasonable if one has failed testing.

Reinstall the top and test for the E3 error

Lower the lid/top assembly carefully while keeping the impact switch at the back left from catching on the tub.
Align the top so it sits flush with the washer sides, then press it backward to lock it into place.
Maneuver the top as needed so it slides into place around the chassis screws and the impact switch.
Test the washer with the lid installed to see if the E3 error is gone.
Reinstall the two rear Phillips screws after confirming the error is resolved.

Rule out a weak or damaged lid magnet

Hold another strong magnet near the switch location to see if the washer stops showing the E3 error.
If an external magnet fixes it, the lid’s built-in magnet is likely bad and the lid may need replacement or a new magnet glued to the outside at the switch location.

Check the control board and lid lock wiring if E3 continues

Unplug the washer again before opening the control board area.
Remove the screws along the back of the washer, then remove the two screws on the left side where the control board housing sits.
Lift the control board housing up and out, then remove the two or three screws holding its cover.
Press the housing edges to pop the top off and access the board connectors.
Disconnect the lid lock wires and test continuity between CN4 pin one and CN12 pin one with the lid open and closed, and repeat for the second wire while pressing the black switch in and out.
If the readings cycle between open loop and continuity near 0.00 Ω, the wiring is likely good and the control board may be the issue.
If a mode never shows the expected change, inspect the harness for damage, especially in bundled wire clusters.

If the magnetic switch and door lock test good, and the lid magnet is confirmed to trigger the switch, focus on control board wiring checks at CN4 and CN12 and inspect for damaged harness sections. Use the correct control board part number for the exact model, because it can vary between Criterion washers. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Fix the Criterion Washing Machine E3 Error Code» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →