How to Troubleshoot a Midea Washing Machine Not Spinning Properly

MideaMidea Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If a Midea-built top-load washing machine won’t spin at all, or spins but leaves clothes too wet, the cause is often something simple like leveling, or a failed sensor or drive component. This guide walks through checks that apply to Midea sub-brands like Criterion, Frigidaire, and Insignia, including impact switch testing, washplate and tub checks, belt and clutch inspection, and shift actuator electrical testing.

🧰 Tools

Bubble Level
Smart Wrench
Phillips Screwdriver
Multimeter
Precision Needle-nose Pliers
Tape
Cable ties
Puller style hook tool
Work Gloves
Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver
10mm Deep Socket
10mm Socket (3/8in Drive)
3/8" Drive Ratchet

⚙️ Parts

Impact switch
Shift actuator
Washplate
Control board

ШагиSteps

Prepare for safe troubleshooting

Turn off the washer, and unplug it from the wall outlet.
Shut off the water supply valves if you need to move or tilt the washer.
Wear cut-resistant gloves if possible, since sheet-metal edges inside the cabinet can be sharp.
Get help tipping the washer, because it’s heavy and can fall if it isn’t supported.

Use error codes to pick where to start

If the washer shows an E5 code, focus on the impact switch checks in this guide.
If the washer shows an E4 out-of-balance code, start with leveling and tub and washplate inspections.
If the washer shows an FD lid lock error code, diagnose the lid lock system before chasing spin problems.
If the washer shows an E3 code, run the mechanical checks in this guide and follow your model’s code chart for the specific meaning.
Small design and wiring differences exist across Criterion, Frigidaire, and Insignia versions of the same Midea platform.

Level the washer

Place a bubble level on the washer, and check that it sits level on the floor.
Adjust the feet under the washer by turning them with a wrench or by hand until the washer is level.
Move the washer off soft or compromised flooring, because it can worsen vibration and poor spinning.

Open the control console top

Confirm the washer is powered off and unplugged.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws at the rear of the top cover.
Remove the right screw, the left screw, and the middle screw between the inlet valves.
Roll the washer console top forward to access the components under it.

Remove the impact switch

Locate the impact switch on the right side under the console on this model.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the impact switch.
Lift the impact switch out so you can inspect it.

Inspect and test the impact switch

Inspect the impact switch and make sure it can pivot freely.
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the wires off the switch terminals.
Set a multimeter to resistance mode in ohms.
Touch a meter lead to each switch prong, then press the switch in while watching the meter.
A good switch changes from OL to a very low ohm value or vice versa, and may beep for continuity.
Replace the impact switch if the reading doesn’t change when the switch is pressed.

Reinstall and verify impact switch alignment

Slot the impact switch back into position, and reinstall its two mounting screws.
Check that the switch isn’t pressed against the tub by default.
Correct any tub position issue that jams the switch, because it can contribute to an E5 code and poor spinning.
Note the voltage label on the switch, since some models may require a DC harness voltage check per that label.
Only perform live voltage checks if you’re trained and can do it safely, because exposed energized wiring can shock or kill you.

Close the console

Roll the console back into place, and pivot the small tabs so the top locks into position.
Reinstall the three rear Phillips screws that secure the top cover.

Inspect the tub and washplate for looseness or damage

Push the tub side-to-side to check for wobble or play that could cause bouncing and poor spinning.
Use a very thin flathead screwdriver to lift out the small center cap on the washplate.
Remove the center bolt or screw holding the washplate, which may be a 10 mm bolt on agitator models or a Phillips screw on some models.
Pull the washplate up and out, using a puller-style tool if needed, since it may be stuck by buildup.
If the washplate is stuck, fill the tub with hot water, run agitation for 5–10 minutes with no clothes and with the bolt removed, then try removal again.
Inspect the bolts and the washplate housing under the plate, and tighten any loose bolts with a 10 mm tool.
Replace the washplate if its threads or underside are stripped or damaged.
Reinstall the bolt or screw, then press the center cap back into place.

Set up to access the underside

Check the drain hose length before moving the washer, since it may need to be elevated or fully drained to prevent spilling.
Tape the lid closed so it can’t swing open while the washer is tilted.
Tilt the washer onto its side to about 90 degrees so you can access the bottom and the rear plate area.

Inspect the belt and lower cover

Inspect the belt drive area for obstructions or belt damage that could prevent full-speed operation.
Remove the lower cover plate screws if you need a clearer view of the transmission and clutch system.
There are four screws holding the cover plate on this design.

Check the shifter linkage and clutch arm movement

Inspect the shift actuator area and reattach the small wire to the transmission if it has been knocked loose.
Make sure the plastic clutch arm can move freely so the transmission can engage spin.

Remove and test the shift actuator

Use a 10 mm socket wrench or a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the shift actuator.
Trace the actuator wiring into the wire cluster bag, and disconnect the actuator harness from the cluster.
Be careful when separating the wiring, since wire colors and routing can vary by model and can be hard to identify.
Cut any cable ties only as needed, and plan to re-tie the harness so wires can’t jostle around after reassembly.
Set a multimeter to resistance mode, and use the 200 to 2000 ohm range if the meter is not auto-ranging.
Press the meter leads into the actuator harness terminals and measure resistance, which should be about 1500 ohms ± 10%.
Replace the shift actuator if the reading is far outside the expected range.

Reinstall the shift actuator and wiring

Reconnect the actuator harness into the wire cluster and route it the same way it was originally.
Re-tie the wiring and reassemble the wire bag so wires can’t move and rub or break.
Mount the wire bag back onto the side of the washer using its metal wire tie.
Slide the wire retainer into the transmission shifter, then seat the actuator into the correct hole position.
Reinstall the two 10 mm screws securing the actuator.
Don’t force the shift arm, since it shouldn’t have much resistance in agitation, but may resist more if the unit is in spin.
Reinstall the rear or lower plates you removed to access the actuator and transmission area.

Decide whether the control board or wiring is the likely cause

Inspect wiring you handled for damage, since a broken wire can also cause spin problems.
Suspect the main control board if the washer still won’t spin after leveling, impact switch checks, tub and washplate inspection, and shift actuator testing.

Reconnect any wire ties and covers you removed, lower the washer back onto the floor carefully, and confirm the drain hose is properly placed before restoring power. If the washer spins but still doesn’t spin-dry fully, recheck leveling, load balance, and any tub looseness that could trigger out-of-balance behavior. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Midea Washing Machine Not Spinning Properly» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →