How to Troubleshoot Water Leaks and Filling Problems in an Insignia Washing Machine

InsigniaInsignia Washing MachineModerate⏱ 20 - 45 minutes

Инструкция на английском (оригинал iFixit). Непонятные термины — в разделе «Основы → Словарь».

If an Insignia washing machine won’t fill (no hot water, no cold water, or an E1 error) or it slowly drips water into the tub when it’s off, the problem is often in the water supply hoses, clogged inlet screens, or a faulty water inlet valve (water valve assembly). This guide walks you through checking the water supply, cleaning the valve screens, testing valve solenoids with a multimeter, replacing a bad valve, and doing a couple of electrical checks if the problem continues.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
Multimeter
Precision Needle-nose Pliers
Shop towel
Shallow pan

⚙️ Parts

Water inlet valve assembly

ШагиSteps

Prepare for troubleshooting

Confirm the symptom, such as no hot fill, no cold fill, an E1 error, or water dripping into the tub when the washer isn’t running.
Unplug the washing machine before opening any panels or disconnecting any internal wiring.
Turn off both household water supply valves at the wall before disconnecting any hoses.

Test the water supply hoses

Remove the hot and cold supply hoses from the washer’s inlet ports.
Test the hoses and household supply to make sure they actually deliver water.
Shut the water supply valves back off after testing.
Caution: Water can spill when hoses are removed, so use a towel and a shallow pan to catch water.

Inspect and clean the inlet valve screens

Inspect the inlet valve screens at the washer’s hot and cold water ports for debris that could clog them.
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the screens out of the valve ports.
Check the screens and the area behind them for buildup or debris.
Wash and clean the screens, and then reinstall them.
A clogged screen can cause no-fill problems and cleaning it may solve the issue without replacing parts.

Remove the top cover

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the top cover.
Remove the right screw, the left screw, and the screw in the middle between the valves.
Roll the washer console top forward to access the valves.
Make sure the washing machine is fully unplugged before touching any wiring.

Disconnect the valve wire harnesses

Pull the wire harness connectors off the water valves.
Valve orientation and harness count vary by model, and some machines have more solenoids than others.

Check valve solenoids with a multimeter

Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).
If the meter isn’t auto-ranging, set it between 200 and 2000 ohms.
Press the meter leads into the two sides of a solenoid to contact the metal prongs, and read the resistance.
Look for roughly 1070 ohms per solenoid pair, or similar values across all solenoids on the valve assembly.
If a reading is off by about 10% or more, the coil is likely damaged and the valve should be replaced.

Decide whether the valve needs replacement

Replace the valve if it leaks water into the tub when it shouldn’t, because it’s likely stuck open from debris.

Remove the valve retainer bracket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two small screws from the metal arm at the front of the valves.
Pivot the retainer up and away from the valves.
Pull the entire valve assemblies out of their mounting area.

Replace the water valve on the hose

Use needle-nose pliers to pinch the hose retainer clamp and slide it farther onto the hose.
Pull the water valve out of the hose.
Press the new valve into the hose.
Pinch the clamp, slide it back near the end of the barb, and release it to secure the hose.
Some units use separate hot and cold valves, and others may use different mixing valves for features like fabric softener.

Reinstall the valve assembly and close the washer

Reseat the valves into the small plastic gaps that hold them in place.
Reinstall the wire harnesses onto the valves in their correct positions.
Lower the retainer bar onto the valves until it snaps into place.
Seating the valves and snapping the bar in place can take some maneuvering to line everything up.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the two screws on the retainer plate.
Roll the top back into place, and reinstall the three top-cover screws.

Check for 120 VAC at the valves if the issue continues

Set the multimeter to AC voltage.
Pull the wire harnesses slightly off the valves to expose metal, but don’t remove them completely.
WARNING: This test requires the washer to be plugged in, so avoid touching exposed metal and keep hands dry.
Plug the washer in and command a fill by starting a load.
Measure for about 120 volts AC at the solenoids when the washer calls for hot and cold water.
If you don’t get about 120 volts AC, the control board is likely bad.

Check wiring continuity from the control board

Unplug the washing machine before accessing the control board.
Access the control board at the rear of the machine, and unplug the wiring connectors, especially the one marked CN5.
Use a multimeter in ohms mode to test CN5 pin 1 to pin 6, and then CN5 pin 2 to pin 6.
If the meter shows OL, the wiring between the board and the valves is likely broken and needs to be inspected and replaced.
Inspect wiring in the plastic bag that holds the conversion wires for possible breaks.

If water still won’t fill correctly after replacing or testing the valve assembly, recheck the hoses, screens, and control board wiring for the exact model. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot Water Leaks and Filling Problems in an Insignia Washing Machine» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →