How to Troubleshoot a Frigidaire Top Load Washing Machine That Won't Drain

FrigidaireFrigidaire Washing MachineModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 2 hours

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If a Frigidaire top-load washing machine won’t drain, drains slowly, or shows a drain-related error code (such as E2 on some similar models), the problem is often a mispositioned drain hose, a blockage in the hoses or pump, a damaged pump impeller, or a failed drain pump. This guide walks you through checking the drain hose setup, draining the tub manually, inspecting for clogs, accessing the drain pump from the bottom, testing it with a multimeter, and replacing it if needed. A similar Midea model is shown in the video.

🧰 Tools

Phillips Screwdriver
Multimeter
Flashlight
Slip Joint Pliers
Shop Towel
Painter's Tape
7/16" Nut Driver

⚙️ Parts

Drain pump

ШагиSteps

Prepare safely

Unplug the washing machine before touching wiring or working underneath it.
Turn off the water supply valves if you’ll be moving or tilting the machine.
Wear gloves, and keep towels or a shallow pan ready because water often spills when hoses are removed.

Check the drain hose height to prevent siphoning

Check that the drain hose is positioned at about the height of the rear of the washer so it drains properly.
Set the top of the drain hose about 100 cm (39 inches) from the floor.
Correct any setup where the hose is too high or too low, because it can cause siphoning and drainage problems.

Check for a pump cleanout if your model has one

Look near the bottom rear area for a pump cleanout cap if the washer has one.
Unscrew the cleanout and check for blockages if it’s present.
Not every model has a cleanout, so continue with the steps below if you don’t find one or if the cleanout isn’t the issue.

Drain the tub manually using the drain hose

Lower the drain hose to at or near floor level to siphon most of the water out of the tub.
If the washer is full of water and it won’t siphon at floor level, assume there’s a blockage in the pump or hoses.

Tilt the washer to access the bottom

Tilt the washing machine onto its front or onto its side so you can reach the bottom.
Tape the lid shut, or hold it securely while tilting so it can’t flip open.

Locate the drain pump and remove its mounting screws

Find the drain pump from underneath by looking for the pump body with a large hose connected to it.
Place a towel under the pump area because water usually comes out when the pump or hoses are opened.
Use a Phillips screwdriver or a 10 mm nut driver to remove the three screws holding the pump housing area in place.

Remove the tub hose and check for obstructions

Use slip-joint pliers to release the clamp and remove the tub hose from the pump.
Check for obstructions inside the tub outlet and inside the tub hose you removed.
Check the hose path from the pump to the outlet drain hose for a blockage.
Use a flashlight to look through openings, especially if no water drained when you lowered the drain hose earlier.

Clear any clogs you find

Remove any debris you find in the hoses, tub outlet, or pump inlet area.
Recheck that water can flow out through the drain path after clearing the obstruction.

Access the pump wiring in the wire cluster

Locate the bundled “bag” or cluster of wires near the rear corner by the control board area.
Remove screws from the back panel as needed to access the wire cluster more easily.
Trace the drain pump wires through the cluster, and remove any cable ties needed to free the pump wiring.
Work slowly and don’t tug hard, because wires can break during inspection and cause new problems.
Unwrap any fabric or cotton wrap around the wire cluster carefully so you can rewrap and tape it during reassembly.

Test the drain pump with a multimeter

Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms).
Press the multimeter leads into the drain pump wire harness terminals.
Replace the pump if the reading isn’t around 16–17 Ω, allowing roughly a 20% margin.

Inspect the pump impeller for damage

Remove the three or four Phillips screws on the pump housing itself.
Separate the pump housing from the pump motor to access the plastic impeller paddles.
Rotate the impeller by hand and feel for three or four firm “segments” that resist and then spring forward due to internal magnets.
Replace the pump if the impeller feels very loose or stripped, even if the resistance reading tested OK.

Replace the pump and reassemble the wiring and hoses

Install the replacement pump in the same position and route its wiring back through the wire cluster.
Retie the wire bundle and secure the wire bag back onto the side of the washer using its metal wire tie.
Reconnect the tub hose to the pump and secure the clamp.
Reinstall the three screws that secure the pump housing area to the washer.
Secure the pump wires with cable ties as needed so they can’t move and chafe.

Check the wiring to the control board if the problem remains

Access the control board wiring from the back while the washer is tilted or positioned so you can reach the rear wiring.
Unplug the pump connector at the control board, labeled CN5.
Use a multimeter to check continuity or resistance between pin three and pin six on the wiring that runs to the pump.
If you get continuity, the control board may not be triggering the pump.
If you don’t get continuity, the wiring from the board to the pump is faulty, often within the wire bundle area.

If the washer still won’t drain after clearing the hose and pump path, recheck the belt, pump wiring, and control board continuity before replacing major parts. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Troubleshoot a Frigidaire Top Load Washing Machine That Won't Drain» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →