How to Fix Grinding and No-Spin in a Maytag Direct Drive Washer

MaytagMaytag Washing MachineModerate⏱ 1 - 3 hours

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If your Maytag direct drive washing machine makes a grinding or loud clicking noise and won’t spin out, the cause is often in the drive system underneath the tub. This guide shows how to safely access the underside, inspect the rotor and stator area, and replace two common failure parts: the W10754448 electromagnetic clutch shift assembly and the W10734521 magnetic slider assembly, which are commonly associated with fault codes F0E5, F7E1, and F7E4.

🧰 Tools

T30 Torx Screwdriver
Socket Wrench
7mm Socket
Socket 10mm
Pick Tool
Screwdriver Set
plastic hammer
Bucket
Masking Tape
Padding or blanket
Wood Block
Zip Ties
Work Gloves
Safety Glasses

⚙️ Parts

electromagnetic clutch shift assembly
magnetic slider assembly

ШагиSteps

Confirm the symptoms this repair addresses

Use this procedure when the washer spins a little but won’t spin out, and it makes a grinding or loud clicking noise.
This repair is commonly used when the washer reports fault codes F0E5, F7E1, or F7E4.
This guide applies to a direct drive design with no belt under the machine.

Prepare the washer for underside access

Unplug the washer.
Turn off the water supply, disconnect the water hoses, and move the washer where you can safely lay it down.
Lower the drain hose closer to the floor to encourage water to drain out before tipping the washer.
Keep a bucket ready because water can still spill from the drain hose after draining.
Tape the lid shut with masking or painter’s tape so it doesn’t swing open when the washer is tilted.
Set padding on the floor and place a block of wood behind it to cushion the washer as it’s lowered.
Get help if needed because the washer is heavy and awkward to tip safely.

Lay the washer down and identify the direct drive underside

Gently lay the washer onto the padding so you can work from the underside.
Look underneath for a large round rotor and stator motor assembly centered under the tub.
Stop if you see a plastic guard with a belt behind it because the underside layout and repair are different.

Remove the rotor bolt

Use a T30 Torx driver to remove the center rotor bolt.
If the rotor turns while loosening the bolt, insert a second screwdriver into the rotor holes between the clutch and the tub housing to lock the rotor.
If the bolt won’t break loose with a screwdriver, use a ratchet for more leverage and tap the ratchet handle with a plastic hammer.

Remove the rotor from the stator

Pull the rotor straight off using both hands and even force on opposite sides.
Pulling evenly prevents the rotor plate from binding and getting forced to one side.
Brace the tub so it doesn’t rock backward while you pull the rotor free.
Keep fingers clear because the rotor is strongly magnetic and can pinch if it snaps toward the stator.

Inspect the rotor and stator for damage

Inspect the stator magnets and copper coils for burn marks or other visible damage.
Inspect the rotor plate magnets for damage or misplacement that could cause grinding and poor spin performance.
Replace the stator or motor components if you find burn marks, damaged coils, or damaged magnets.
Some Maytag stators may have a 10-year warranty, so check warranty coverage before buying parts.

Inspect and disconnect the stator wiring

Inspect the wire harness at the lower right of the stator for frayed, damaged, or displaced wires.
Unplug the wiring harness connectors from the stator area.
Use a 10 mm socket to remove the screw securing the metal connector bracket for easier access to the harness connections.
Release the small side tabs to free the harness connectors from the bracket.
Replacing the clutch may include part of a new wire harness, which can help if you found frayed wires.

Remove the stator and clutch assembly

Use a 7 mm socket wrench to remove the six long stator screws.
Remove the screws in any order because all six screws are the same length and style.
Support the stator and clutch assembly as the last screw comes out so it doesn’t drop.
Pull the stator and clutch assembly off the tub once all screws are removed.
Three screws secure the clutch, and three screws secure the stator, but they all mount through the assembly to the tub.

Replace the electromagnetic clutch

Flip the stator over and slide the plastic tabs on the wire trunk to open the wire routing channel.
Remove the clutch wires from the harness routing so the clutch can separate from the stator.
Remove the old clutch and install the new W10754448 electromagnetic clutch shift assembly onto the stator.
Align the clutch to the stator posts because it only installs one way, and aim the wires toward the wire trunk.
Snap the wires back into the plastic trunk to match the original routing.
Add a cable tie if needed, and orient the tie’s peg to the outside so it can’t rub on the rotor system.
Don’t rely on a multimeter to test the clutch while it’s removed because it may read open even when good.

Remove the metal retainer ring from the slider

Locate the thin metal slider ring clipped into grooves on the gear splines.
Use a dental pick or hooked pick to wedge into the spline grooves and pry the ring up and away from the gear.
Work the pick into the grooves and force the ring up and out until it releases.
Wear gloves and eye protection because the ring can slip suddenly and the underside can have sharp edges.

Replace the magnetic slider assembly

Remove the plastic ring and spring pack from the gear shaft after the metal retainer ring is off.
Remove the old plastic slider with the magnet from the splines.
Install the new W10734521 magnetic slider assembly onto the gear splines and thread it on correctly.
Install the slider with the ridged side facing outward.
Reinstall the spring pack and plastic ring.
Reinstall the metal retainer ring by seating it and using a pick in the splines to press the clip hard onto the shaft until it snaps fully in place.
Work around the ring until it’s fully snapped into the groove all the way around.

Reinstall the clutch and stator assembly

Align the clutch and stator assembly with the six mounting holes on the gear case.
Orient the stator so the wire cluster sits in the lower right corner to provide enough wire clearance.
Start and tighten the six long screws to secure the clutch and stator assembly back to the tub.
Three screws secure the clutch, and three screws secure the stator, but they all screw into the tub.

Reconnect any harnesses and brackets that were removed, reinstall the rotor and its center bolt, and return the washer upright before restoring water and power. If grinding persists after slider and clutch replacement, recheck the rotor and stator magnets, the stator coils for burn marks, and the lower-right harness for damage. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«How to Fix Grinding and No-Spin in a Maytag Direct Drive Washer» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →