Roper Dryer Heating Element Replacement

RoperRoper DryerModerate⏱ 45 minutes - 1 hour

Инструкция на английском (оригинал iFixit). Непонятные термины — в разделе «Основы → Словарь».

If a Roper dryer runs but won’t heat, a failed heating element or failed temperature-safety component can stop it from drying clothes. This guide shows how to replace the heating element canister and related heat-circuit parts, including the thermal cutoff, heater thermostat, thermal fuse, and cycling thermostat.

🧰 Tools

1/4" Nut Driver
Needle Nose Pliers
Large Flathead Screwdriver
Work Gloves

⚙️ Parts

Heating element canister
Thermal cutoff
Heater thermostat
Thermal fuse
Cycling thermostat

ШагиSteps

Disconnect power

Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet, or turn off the dryer’s circuit breaker.
WARNING: Dryers use high voltage, so don’t work on the unit with power connected.
Caution: Sheet metal edges inside the dryer can be sharp, so wear cut-resistant gloves if you have them.

Remove the rear panel

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver or socket to remove the nine to 10 screws securing the rear panel.
Pull the sheet metal rear panel straight off the dryer.
Screw count can vary slightly by model.

Confirm part compatibility and document wiring

Confirm the replacement heating element matches the lint filter style used by the dryer.
Take a clear photo of every wire connection on the heater housing and thermostats before disconnecting anything.
Many Whirlpool-built dryers share this heater style across brands, but there are multiple versions, so confirm compatibility before installing parts.

Remove the heating element canister

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two screws securing the heating element canister, one screw on each side.
Roll the bottom of the canister outward, then slide the canister downward to remove it.

Install the new heating element canister

Insert the new canister at an angle, roll it into place, and push it upward until it seats in the housing.
Reinstall the two 1/4 inch screws that secure the canister to the dryer.
Some replacement canisters fit very snugly and may require gentle shifting so the screw holes line up.

Replace the thermal cutoff or high-limit thermostat

Match the wire orientation on the thermal cutoff or high-limit thermostat, and move the wires to the new part one at a time.
Remove the mounting screw or screws holding the thermal cutoff in place, and remove the old part.
Install the new thermal cutoff, secure it with the same hardware, and verify the terminals match the original wiring layout.
This part may be held by a small metal retainer with one screw, or by two screws, depending on the model.

Remove the heater thermostat

Identify each wire on the heater thermostat, including any small moderator wire, and take a photo if needed.
Disconnect the wires from the old heater thermostat, and park them where they will not fall back into the cabinet.
Remove any separate red jumper wire if the replacement thermostat has a welded metal jumper built in.
Use a screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two fasteners holding the old thermostat, then remove the thermostat.
Pull spade terminals by the connector, not by the wire, to avoid damaging the harness.

Install the new heater thermostat

Fit the new thermostat so its brass tab sits flush over the heating element housing.
Secure the thermostat using the correct mounting method for the part and housing, then make sure it sits flush against the housing.
Reconnect the wires to the same terminals as before, including the small moderator wire on the small terminal.
Crimp the small metal retaining piece on the element housing upward as much as possible so the thermostat stays tight and flush.
Some thermostat and element combinations use a hook-and-crimp mount and may not require screws, while others still use screws.
Some thermostats require a jumper wire and some do not, so match the replacement part design.

Replace the thermal fuse

Locate the thermal fuse and move the two wire terminals to the new thermal fuse before removing the old one.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screw holding the old thermal fuse, and remove the fuse.
Insert the new thermal fuse into place, press it down slightly to seat the lip, and reinstall the screw.
A failed thermal fuse commonly causes a dryer not to turn on at all.

Replace the cycling thermostat

Take a photo of the cycling thermostat wires, then match them exactly on the new thermostat.
Move the wires from the old cycling thermostat to the new one one at a time so you do not mix them up.
Use a screwdriver to remove the screw holding the old cycling thermostat, and remove the thermostat.
Fit one side of the new cycling thermostat into the metal housing, swing it into position, and secure it with the screw.
Use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to help remove tight wire terminals if needed.

Reassemble the dryer and test heat

Reinstall the rear panel and secure it with the nine to 10 1/4 inch screws around the perimeter.
Restore power, run a timed heat cycle, and verify the dryer heats normally.
If the dryer still will not heat, recheck every wire for correct placement and tight connections before replacing more parts.
Clean the entire vent system if airflow is restricted, because a dirty vent can cause overheating and repeated heat failures.

If the dryer heats again, keep it that way by maintaining strong airflow through the lint filter and vent system. If the dryer still has no heat after reassembly, focus troubleshooting on wiring orientation, loose terminals, and vent restriction, since all of those can prevent proper heating even with new parts installed. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

«Roper Dryer Heating Element Replacement» — автор Ben Schlichter, iFixit, лицензия CC BY-NC-SA 3.0. Показано без изменений. Открыть оригинал и комментарии →