Whirlpool: коды ошибокerror codes

Before buying: meter the loads — none should read near 0 Ω (shorted) between terminals or to ground. If the code appears right at power-up with healthy loads, the board is at fault.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Reset: remove power for 30 seconds (unplug, or switch off the breaker), then restore it. If the code reappears right after every power-up, it is the board — there is no other test.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Decisive test per the tech sheet: unplug the keypad ribbon from the board, wait at least 10 seconds and power up. Code gone — keypad; code remains — board.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: with power off, ring out each wire of the UI-to-board harness — about 0 Ω, with no break when the door is flexed.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: the thermistor must read a finite resistance that falls smoothly as it warms (room-temperature value — from the model's tech sheet table); OL = open, near 0 Ω = shorted.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: a 120 V element typically reads 10–30 Ω (typical for home dishwashers, verify on the tech sheet); OL = open. Also check each terminal to the chassis — must be OL (no ground leak).

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. On a Hi-Temp cycle the water should get noticeably hotter.

Before buying: latch contacts about 0 Ω when latched, OL when open. Per the KitchenAid tech sheet: with the door open, about 13 VDC across P9-5/P9-6; no voltage — board.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. Close the door and press Start — it should start right away.

Decisive test for the water variant (per tech sheet): start a fill, after a minute press Cancel/Drain for 5–10 seconds, open the door — water must not siphon out of the tub. In the test cycle the fill should bring water up to around the filter's lower edge.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: a valve coil typically reads a few hundred up to about 1500 Ω (verify on the tech sheet); OL = open. In the service test cycle, the valve connector should see 120 VAC during fill.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Decisive sign: foam visible a minute into the wash — not a part. If there's no foam but the code returns, look for a leak or the missing disk.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. Run Normal with a proper dose of dishwasher detergent — no foam and no code.

Decisive test: with the unit unpowered, does water still enter the tub? Then the valve isn't closing mechanically. Float switch: resistance must change between about 0 Ω and OL as the float is lowered and raised.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: element typically 10–30 Ω (verify on the tech sheet); OL = open.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. After 10–15 minutes of a Hi-Temp cycle the tub water should be noticeably hotter than the tap water.

Typical sign: dishes dirty, no spraying sound — the wash motor isn't circulating. Before buying: during the wash step of the service test cycle the motor connector must see 120 VAC; 120 V present but the motor is silent or only hums — the motor. Winding — finite resistance (exact values in the tech sheet), OL = open.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Decisive test: disconnect the supply line at the valve over a bucket and open the tap — strong flow expected. Strong flow but no fill with 120 V on the coil — the valve. Coil typically a few hundred to about 1500 Ω, OL = open.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: valve coil a few hundred to about 1500 Ω (verify on the tech sheet), OL = open. Drain pump — typically tens of ohms (verify), OL = open; the impeller must turn by finger.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Decisive sign: water in the tray — find the leak; tray dry but code present — float/connector (ring it out: contacts change as the float moves).

After the repair: clear the code with Cancel twice, run a full Normal cycle and after 10–15 minutes check the tray with a flashlight — dry, no code.

Decisive test: unit unpowered, tap open — does water drip or run into the tub? Yes — valve. No, but fill never stops when powered — board.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. The fill must stop at the normal level.

Decisive test: pull the hose off the disposer/sink, put it in a bucket and run drain (Cancel/Drain) — a strong stream means the blockage is in the house plumbing; weak or none — pump/filter. 120 V at the pump during drain but no spin — pump.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Before buying: pump winding typically tens of ohms (verify on the tech sheet), OL = open. During the drain step of the test cycle, the pump connector should see 120 V.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back. Drain should finish in 1–2 minutes with no water left above the filter.

Decisive sign: in the test cycle water must switch between the lower and upper arms (you hear the sound change). No switching with power at the motor — diverter.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.

Decisive sign: drips or white scale trails around the diverter under the tub. After the repair: Cancel twice, a full Normal cycle, then after 10–15 minutes check underneath with a flashlight — dry, no code.

Before buying: the dispenser coil and fan motor must read a finite resistance (values in the tech sheet), OL = open. In the test cycle the dispenser must pop open and the fan must run during dry.

After the repair: enter service diagnostics and clear the error history (see serviceMode), then run the service test cycle or a full Normal cycle — the code must not come back.